Anyone who comes from an old-fashioned
Canadian farm background remembers the varied activity at pig-slaughtering
time. There was so much to do that the whole family joined in to help. The men,
of course took care of the actual sticking and butchering, and the women
prepared the sausages, bacon, and hams(fresh and cured), and put the chops down
in lard. Nothing was wasted.
The pigs head simmered gently in a great
pot with herbs and seasonings; then the meat and juices left to chill and
turned into that cold jellied dish, head cheese. Ears were boiled, then dipped
in crumbs and broiled to be eaten with a spicy devil sauce; tails were cooked
for hours with sauerkraut and beer or wine; pigs feet were pickled, or maybe
boned and stuffed with ground pork to make an unusual sausage. Even the fat was
used and in the process of rendering out the lard you got great cracklings. You
buy them at the store today in packages labelled pig skins but they don't taste
anything like fresh cracklings.
What wasn't rendered to make fine lard for
pastries was used to preserve the chops and pork steaks. In the old-fashioned
process, these were cooked down slowly and packed into great crocks; then
melted lard was poured over the meat. Stored in a cool spot, a deep cellar or
spring house, the cooked chops and steaks would keep all winter. They needed
only reheating and crisping for dinner.
Tools of the Trade: Include a boning knife, steak knife,
steel, and meat saw-many meat cutters would also include a heavier butcher
knife and a cleaver.
Weather and Scalding Barrel
After the
first good cold spell of the year was the time to butcher the hogs; it had to
be cold enough to keep meat from spoiling but not cold enough to freeze the
carcass. Utensils, knives, buckets, straining cloths, and barrels were
gathered. The wood for the fires was cut and neighbours and friends were
waiting. Butchering day started before daylight, a fire was built just to keep
warm, and one was started under the scalding barrel and another iron kettle
(often this was just another barrel [this step is now pretty much obsolete, as
most people use a propane torch, instead of scalding and scraping).
Killing
Killing
the hog was usually done with a single 22 calibre long rifle bullet between the
eyes. A larger calibre was too destructive and just sticking inhumane, messy,
and wasteful. Draw an imaginary line from the right ear to the left eye and a
line from the left ear to the right eye. Where these lines cross is where you
placed the shot. The job was usually given to an expert hand and for good
reasons. There is a lot of "good eating" on a hogs head. One delicacy
(which I do not recommend) is pig brains. Another reason was; a misplaced shot
could just injure the animal and a 180 to 240 pound hog can be very dangerous.
Immediately
after the hog was shot, it was bled. This was accomplished in more than one
way. One way was to insert a knife about three inches behind the jaw on the
left side of the neck and cut the jugular vein. Another way was to lay the
animal on its back and find the breast bone. Insert a 6 inch or more knife
pointing to the rear and parallel to the backbone, with an upward thrust sever
the carotid artery. The important thing
was to bleed the animal within about two minutes of shooting it. If you waited
too long the animals blood pressure could increase and a condition called
"blood splash" could occur. It didn't ruin the meat but it did give
it an unpleasing colour.
Scraping
After the
hog was bled an incision was cut in the hind legs just above and back of the
foot. The gambrel tendons in the back of the leg were stretched out and hooked
to a hoist; in this way the hog could be lowered and raised in the barrel as
needed. The water in the scalding barrel needed to be heated from about 165
degrees to "just below the point of boiling". If it was too hot it
would set the hair and make it almost impossible to remove and if too cold the
hair would not slip and could not be scraped—it helped to add just a little
wood ash, to soften the water and loosen the hair
You judged
the time by raising the hog and scraping a small section to see if it would
slip or remove easily. It was important not to let the hog stay in the water
too long or the hair would set and was almost impossible to remove. Small
patches of hair were removed by pouring hot water on it and scraping
Some
people made the mistake of using a scraping knife that was too sharp. The idea
was to scrape it away, removing it roots and all, not shave it. After the
scraping a very sharp knife could be used, Just in case some hair escaped the
scraping. Today some people use propane torch
Head
Removing
the head was next and this was done simply by cutting around the neck at the
base of the head until the entire neck bone was rounded. It was finished by a
quick and firm twist then set aside for later use.
Gutting
It was
important to have your tubs ready for this operation. It was also the time when
you came to appreciate the withholding of food from the animal for the last day
or two. The idea was to open the entire gut cavity without puncturing the gut.
A cut was made from from the crouch to the chin. With this done, and the tubs
ready; the large intestine was cut loose at the anus and tied off with a string
and the entire mass was allowed to fall into the tub. When this was done; the
liver was removed and the gall bladder was carefully removed. The liver was
usually eaten that night for supper or it was used to make liver sausage.
Here is
where you find people differ in their eating habits.
Cutting the Carcass
When the
carcass was clean inside and out it was time to cut it into usable pieces. This
was usually done with the equipment at hand—butcher knife and a chopping axe.
At the same time the sausage making operation was started and the lard pot was
going. The lean trimmings went in the sausage mill and the fat went into the
lard pot. The lard pot was started while the hog was still hanging; with the
fat from the inside cavity around the intestines or leaf fat. This is also
where you get cracklings. The axe was used to cut the hog down the middle into
halves. In the old days, they just cut down the back bone on each side, staying
as close as they could. You got some good meaty backbones and a nice thick
piece of fat back. Nowadays it is cut in half using a saw and the loins are
removed whole.
The
hams and shoulders are removed at the joints and you have the middling or side
meat left. Separate the ribs from the side meat.
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