REAL CHATEAUBRIAND, As It Should Look, And be Prepared

Links:Fillet-and the Modern Conception

Chateaubriand Steak. from Wikipedia, because it continually contradicts itself, it is my personal opinion that this post should be removed and replaced with something factual; or just maybe Wikipedia should refer to a RELIABLE dictionary, Encyclopedia, French Cook Book, or other, reference source.

Chateaubriand-is really a recipe and not a cut of meat; but, traditionally, it is always cut from the first cut from the SHORT- LOIN (SIR-LOIN).

Other than for the recipe I have posted here, I have been able to find only one (1) recipe for REAL chateaubriand posted anywhere on the internet; and it, as you will see by following the link:A real Chateaubriand steak is a thick cut from the center section of the tenderloin-that portion of the tenderloin contained in the porterhouse section of the beef loin.  is not chateaubriand; or at least the author is a little confused and/or mistaken as to what is a porterhouse,T-bone, or club steak. The post IS from from the USA, SO,what more would you expect; as is continually documented; and well proven; they are usually a little confused-or, just plain wrong.
Usually, it will be the thickest (some variations, of French or UK origin, use a bone in porterhouse, about two inches thick) part of the tenderloin (Porterhouse,not modern Mignon portion).Whatever cut is used, the steak should be a minimum of one and a half inches thick and preferably over two.

Fillet mignon-once considered to be the whole fillet, the present concept of fillet mignon, is really only a recipe as well. 

It is now considered to be the next cut down from the choice chateaubriand (porterhouse section). AND, ALTHOUGH IT WOULD SEEM, FROM THE QUOTE BELOW, THAT AT LEAST SOME OF YOU ARE STILL VERY CONFUSED; AS YOU CAN ALSO READILY SEE IN THE ABOVE ILLUSTRATION, THE FILLET IS A PART OF THE SIRLOIN; therefore there is no controversy in the fact that some sources say that it was originally cut from the SIR-LOIN the only food or cut of meat ever to be officially KNIGHTED. Oh, and to end a little more confusion, Château potatoes are not olive shaped and while they may; or may not; also employ bread crumbs, they are not sautéed (The Olivette or olive Potato) now varies somewhat in size but like the Parisian  and Noisette, originally employed a special cutter.

"CHATEAUBRIAND HISTORY

There are a few things about Chateaubriand that most sources agree. It is a recipe, not a cut of meat. It was created for Francois René Vicomte de Chateaubriand (1768-1848) French author and statesman. It was created by his chef, Montmireil (possibly in 1822).

Sources differ on the other important details of this recipe. Most say it was originally cut from the thickest part of the beef tenderloin, but several state that it was originally cut from the sirloin. Some say it was one very thick cut of beef, seared on the outside and rare on the inside. It may or may not then have had the seared and charred ends cut off before serving. Others state that the thick steak (filet or sirloin) was cooked between two inferior steaks to enhance its flavour and juiciness. The inferior steaks were cooked until well charred, then discarded.

Most state that it was originally served with Bernaise sauce, but some say the sauce was made with reduced white wine, shallots, demi-glace, butter and lemon juice. Finally, all agree the steak was served with chateau potatoes (small olive shaped pieces of potato sautéed until browned)."

FILLET OF BEEF FOR  ENTREES

CHATEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS

By fillet steaks it is generally understood that we are referring to the TENDERLOIN FILLET Those pieces of meat cut laterally from the thickest part of the fillet of beef are used for Chateaubriand. Next, according to modern usage, comes the fillet mignon. They ought to be cut about one and one-half inches thick, and weigh from six to seven oz. Tournedos (actually MEDALLIONS outside of the USA) are half-fillets in respect of their weight, and might well be called the "kernels "of the fillet of beef. The usual thickness of a tournedos is about one and one-quarter inches, and they should be cut to a nice, round shape (hence the name). With the object of preserving their shape, they may be tied round with string.

Medallions-make up the nest smaller cut down from the modern fillet mignon-not recognized in the U.S.A.-they will have some excuse but I haven't heard it.

Tournedos-are the next cut and not quite as fine grained, often(usually) used in stroganoff, along with the other tail trimmings. IN THE USA MEDALLIONS ARE CALLED TOURNEDOS-again they will have some excuse-probably catering to the Hispanic populous.

Planked Steak- easy to do and very eye appealing, this is the only method which really serves justice to the unrivalled quality of Canadian and especially Alberta beef 

We, as proud Canadians, producing the world’s best beef, should never, ever, settle for anything less.

Ingredients

1 good steak, porterhouse, t-bone, even fillet mignon, your choice, a minimum of 2 inches thick

            Butter

Duchess potatoes            

Minced parsley

Cooked vegetables

Salt

Paprika

Method

1. Trim the fat and make outline of steak even.

2. Broil

3. Oil a heated plank, place steak on plank, and arrange border of Duchess Potatoes around it.

4. Arrange other cooked vegetables, at least three, in contrasting colour, such as stuffed tomatoes or green peppers, small boiled onions, peas, string beans, cubes of carrot or turnip, cauliflower, around the steak, also so that the board is entirely concealed.

5. Place the plank in the oven until the potato border is browned and all the vegetables are heated through.

6. After removing it from the oven, finish steak (spread with butter and sprinkle with minced parsley, salt and paprika).

Serve on the plank serves 4 to 6.

Variations:

Chateaubriand-The story goes that back in the days of Napoleon, French Chef Montmirail created a special dish for French author and statesman, Francois Chateaubriand. He took a cut of beef from the largest part of the tenderloin, just down, or up; depending on which way you look at it; from what is now considered the fillet mignon, seasoned it with black pepper, grilled it, and then finished it with butter. This cut, now synonymous with the recipe. Like all really good steaks, (any steak worth eating) Chateaubriand is thick, large enough to serve at least two people

The meat is carved, at the table, into thin strips and served with Château and Béarnaise sauce. Traditionally, instead of Duchess Potatoes, hand carved, Château potatoes are served. Of course the beef tenderloin steak is one of the more expensive, less nutritive cuts; and lacking in flavour, but if you want to make a meal that is sure to impress, this is a good one to choose.

I include here a recipe for Chateaubriand that is slightly unusual in that it is served with Artichokes Béarnaise and does not include the traditional Château or even Duchess Potatoes (see recipe included under how to cook a really, really, good steak).

8 large artichokes

1)    2- 2 lbs. each-cuts from the large end of beef fillet

2)    Suitable variety of cooked vegetables

3)    With sharp knife, cut stem from artichoke and cut off two- thirds of tops, leaving 1- inch bottoms

4)    With scissors, trim thorny tips from leaves; brush cut edges with lemon juice to prevent discolouration. Pull loose leaves from around bottom.

5)    Cook bottoms; cool slightly; with spoon scoop out and discard fuzzy “chokes”. Return the artichokes to cooking liquid and keep them warm.

6)    Broil steaks to desired degree of doneness as described above.

7)    Prepare Béarnaise sauce.

8)    To serve: With slotted spoon, remove artichoke bottoms from cooking liquid; drain on paper towels; spoon some Béarnaise sauce into centre of each.

9)    Slice meat thickly. Arrange meat slices on plank, in centre of a large warm platter, and surround them with the stuffed artichokes inter-spaced with the other cooked vegetables.

Eating Artichokes: Pull out a leaf and dip base in Béarnaise sauce; pull through teeth, scraping out the pulp. Discard leaves on plate.

Traditional Fillet Mignon

Ingredients:

3 lbs. beef fillet

Butter

Salt pork      

Salt and pepper

Flour

Method:

1. Remove any skin, fat, and ligaments, with a sharp knife.

2. Lard the upper surface with strips of fat salt pork and rub the entire surface with soft butter.

3. Dredge well with salt, pepper, and flour, and place the fillet, without water, in a small shallow pan.

4. Bake in a slow oven (300 F.) Or cut tenderloin into thick steaks and broil.Serves: 8.

THE GARBAGE

 that you, see pictured-on Google Images, for example, 

like the image directly below,

 IS NOT CHATEAUBRIAND

 THE REAL CHATEAUBRIAND  IS MORE ABOUT

THE RECIPE

 AND

 (having been first prepared for 

Nobility and State Functions) 

THE CARVING, AND PRESENTATION,

THAN THE ACTUAL PIECE OF MEAT

IT DOES NOT, OR RATHER, SHOULD NOT, LOOK LIKE THE  BOILED/BRAISED, BEEF A LA MODE, BEAVER, ROAD KILL, WHATEVER, YOUR GUESS,  ALL YOU CAN EAT OR FORCE DOWN, FAST FOOD CAFETERIA, SLOPPY MESS, SHOWN ABOVE.

Instead, real Chateaubriand is presented as a very elegant and special dish for which a Porterhouse or quality T- bone may be used in the recipe, instead of all fillet.   

The recipe calls for at least four different vegetables, all individually contained, of contrasting colour, not to include  the fluted mushrooms and Château potatoes which are also part of the original recipe.The vegetables must surround the steak, like a floral bouquet (bouquet garni). The reason the first recipe called for two steaks is that anything larger than a two pound cut will take you to the Fillet Mignon; which can also be cut into individual steaks or prepared in one piece for two or more-without US style bacon.

Chateaubriand is all about the carving and the presentation.

The presentation, usually,

 CALLS FOR CHÂTEAU POTATOES

and includes 

BOTH

 BÉARNAISE AND CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCES.

I include this slightly unusual recipe for Chateaubriand (in that it is served with Artichokes Bearnaise and does not include the traditional Château Potatoes); in order to show this all important, presentation.

8 large artichokes

2, 2 lb. cuts from the large or Porterhouse end of beef fillet; not from thethe middle or filet mignon portion.  

         Suitable variety of cooked vegetables

1. With a  sharp knife, cut stem from artichokes and cut off two-thirds of tops , leaving 1 inch bottoms.
2. With scissors, trim thorny tips from leaves; brush cut edges with lemon juice, to prevent discolouration. Pull louse leaves from around bottom.
3. Cook bottoms; cool slightly; with spoon scoop out and discard fuzzy "chokes". Return the artichokes to cooking liquid to keep them warm.
4. Broil steaks to desired degree of doneness (no more than medium rare).
5. Prepare Bearnaise sauce.
6. To serve: With slotted spoon, remove artichoke bottoms from  cooking liquid; drain on paper towels; spoon some Bearnaise sauce into the centre of each. Slice meat thinly. Arrange meat in slices on plank, in centre of a large warm platter; and surround them with stuffed artichokes, inter spaced with the other bouquet of cooked vegetables

Eating Artichokes: Pull out a leaf and dip base in Béarnaise sauce; pull through teeth, scraping out the pulp. Discard leaves on plate.

More traditionally Chateaubriand is a six pound tenderloin (size can vary but it must serve two or more people), seasoned with coarse black pepper. Some cooks will also use salt. I do not agree with this practice, because salt draws the juices out of the meat and it can always be added after the steak is cooked. Most North American consumers will add salt in any case, usually without ever having tasted the steak. Very simply cooked Chateaubriand is still a hallmark of first class dining. It is usually presented on a plank, accompanied by four or five different, unmixed vegetables of contrasting colour , Château potatoes, and both Chateaubriand  and Béarnaise sauce.

   Note:  As the illustrations below clearly indicate, Chateau potatoes are not olive shaped, are not usually roasted, and they are never deep fried.     

    The Recipe:

1-20 oz piece of beef tenderloin (or as above recipe) cut from the large end (head)

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Freshly cracked black pepper

 Béarnaise Sauce: Béarnaise sauce is simply a Hollandaise sauce(warm mayonnaise) but made with a tarragon vinegar reduction. In any case here is a recipe.

  2/3 cup white wine vinegar

  1 shallot minced

  1-1/2 tsp dried tarragon

  4 large egg yolks

  2 Tbsps water

  ½ cup (stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

       Coarse salt

Ø  In a small sauce pan, bring vinegar, shallot, and tarragon to a boil. Cook until liquid has reduced to 2 Tbsps, about 4 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Rinse out saucepan and return the strained vinegar to the pan.

Ø  Add egg yolks and the 2 Tbsps water. Cook, over low heat, whipping constantly, until mixture thickens and forms thick ribbons, 3 to 4 minutes.

Ø  Whip in the butter, one piece at a time: if sauce gets too hot (starts to bubble), remove from heat and whip in a piece of butter. Continue whipping until all the butter has been absorbed, about, about 3 minutes.

Remove from heat and immediately transfer to a bowl to stop further cooking. Season with salt. Use immediately or keep warm in a Bain-marie.

      Chateaubriand Sauce

6 Tbsps. unsalted butter

3 mushroom caps 1"-1 ½" minced

½ bay leaf

1/8 tsp dried thyme

½ cup dry white wine

½ cup beef stock

1-1/2 tsps minced parsley

Salt and cracked black pepper

Ø  Heat 3 Tbsps butter in skillet over med heat. Add Shallots and cook until softened. Stir in mushrooms and cook a few minutes

Ø  Add bay leaf, thyme and wine Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until liquid has evaporated.

Ø  Remove the bay leaf and the thyme sprig.

Ø  Add the stock, tarragon, parsley, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, remove from heat, and whip in remaining butter bit by bit.

Ø  Taste and adjust seasonings

Ø  Set aside in a warm bain-marie.

     Château Potatoes

This illustration is intended to show the size and shape of the potato. There should be no knife marks on the finished potato

The somewhat pointy potatoes (shown top) are very poorly done but the illustration does at least give some slight indication of how they should look.

Ø  Cut potatoes into rectangular blocks 1 inch by 2 inches.

Ø  With a paring knife; and removing as little of the potato as possible from the sides, shape the blocks into smooth round barrel (not olive-which is an entirely different potato, used in en entirely different way) keep the ends blunt. There should be no visible knife marks.

Ø  Place in water and parboil until about ¾ cooked, times will vary according to the type of potato used and the water content. Originally Château potatoes were always prepared from a mealy such as the Russet and this step was omitted.

Ø  Using butter and a light skillet so you can keep the potatoes moving, sauté until a uniform golden brown.

Ø  Sprinkle with minced parsley before serving. The potatoes should be well glazed with butter. In the modern, high production kitchens of North America potatoes are most often roasted; but they are not château potatoes and the flavour and texture is entirely different. True Château potatoes are much more delicate in both flavour and texture.

      I have inserted another illustration of a reasonably good CHATEAUBRIAND PRESENTATION; which, while it, like the above recipe, does deviate from tradition somewhat; also serves to illustrate that the PRESENTATION is MORE IMPORTANT than rigidly trying to stick with any interpretation of the original recipe. NOTE: Carving and portioning of the steak should always be done at the table and is an integral part of  the ceremony that goes with PROPER PRESENTATION.

©Al (Alex-Alexander)D. Girvan. All rights reserved.