Pulled Pork-Recipes and Tips

Pork is sometimes diseased. The law, of course, does not allow sale of diseased pork and if the meat is properly government-inspected, none should reach the consumer market. It does.

Therefore, pork should never be eaten rare, but often is. On the other hand, pork should never be over cooked; but often is. Pork turns out well, roasted, but a meat thermometer is a must.

Perhaps because pork was for so long the meat most residents of the United States of the Americans ate, it became associated with those States and acquired the reputation of being ordinary, indigestible, and even dangerous to the health.

Properly prepared, it is none of these things.

Most Canadian pork comes from animals under one year old, which means that it usually is tender. Moreover, it is a great deal leaner today than it was only fifteen years ago, reflecting the results of new breeding programs. Unfortunately many United States of the Americas produced feeds (containing animal by-products) are still in use and still very, very risky.

Tests have shown that pork is every bit as digestible as any other meat, although, perhaps, it could be viewed as a bit "heavy" for summer dining. As for the dangers of trichinosis, scientists have recently shown that pork need not be cooked as long as most people think to be safe. The parasites, when present (and with the United States of the Americans now being held slightly more to account in their farming practises the chances are slender, indeed, that they will be), are destroyed at the relatively low internal temperature of 137 F. (the recommended final internal roasting temperature for a pork loin, however, is still 170 F. this means the meat should be removed from the oven at 155to 160F.)

Pork is ideally suited to the modern methods of broiling or roasting

If word were to get around about this, pork might be emerging from ovens, roasted rather than braised, well cooked, rather than overcooked-juicy instead of dry, and much more flavourful. Pork's new lean look is a good enough recommendation, in itself, for cooking it less, and as I asked in my write up on beef- why would you braise  a tender cut-to what purpose.

With pork chops ONLY- except those very thin (1/2 inch or less) fast fry kind, and although it is not really necessary, after browning the surface, it is well to add, carefully, a few drops of water, then cover the pan and allow the pork to braise.

If cooked on the surface burner, the chops should be browned first. Pork has enough fat and none should be added to the frying pan.

Oven-Baked/Roasted, Pulled Pork

Ingredients

Dry Rub-This rub may be used with any chicken or pork as a barbeque rub, see also Dry Spicy BarbecueRub, Barbeque Sauces, and Mixes of Convenience:

3 Tbsps. paprika

1 Tbsp. garlic powder

1 Tbsp. brown sugar

1 Tbsp. dry mustard

3 Tbsps. coarse unionised salt

1 (5 to 7 pounds) pork cut or joint, preferably shoulder or Boston butt

12 hamburger buns

Directions

• ·         Mix the paprika, garlic power, brown sugar, dry mustard, and salt together in a small bowl.
• ·         Rub the spice blend all over the pork and marinate, for as long as you have time for, as little as 1 hour or up to overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.
• ·         Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.
• ·         Put the pork in a shallow, uncovered, roasting pan and bake for about 6 hours. Basically, bake the pork-in oven- until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 155 to 160 degrees F-you do not want it to be over cooked and falling apart, thus killing many of the nutrients.
• ·         Remove the pork roast from the oven and transfer to a large platter.
• ·          Allow the meat to rest for about 10 minutes. While still warm, take 2 forks and "pull" the meat to form shreds (using the 2 forks, shred the pork by steadying the meat with 1 fork and pulling it away with the other).
• ·          Put the shredded pork in a bowl.
• ·         Pour 1/2 of the sauce on the shredded pork and mix well to coat.
• ·         To serve, spoon the pulled pork mixture onto the bottom 1/2 of the hamburger bun. Serve the remaining sauce on the side.

Cider Vinegar Barbecue Sauce:

1 1/2 cups cider vinegar

1 C yellow or brown mustard

1/2 C ketchup

1/3 C packed brown sugar

2 garlic cloves, crushed and minced

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. cayenne

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

To make this barbecue sauce: combine the vinegar, mustard, ketchup, brown sugar, garlic, salt, cayenne and black pepper in a saucepan over medium heat. Simmer gently, stirring, for 10 minutes until the sugar dissolves.

Crock Pot/Slow Cooker Braised/Stewed, Pulled Pork

Economically speaking, the whole point-the only point- of using a slow cooker is to get the ingredients into the cooker quickly and then be able to walk away. Always Incorprate All Liquids From The Cooker Into The Sauce

For this easy pulled pork recipe, just coat the pork shoulder with a Spice Rub of dark brown sugar, chili powder, cumin, and cinnamon. Then cook it on a bed of garlic and onions covered with chicken broth. When you come back six to ten hours later, you’ll have juicy pork that’s ready to be shredded and served atop nachos, alongside cornbread, or in a sandwich with your favourite barbecue sauce. This no-fuss, versatile recipe makes enough to feed a crowd, and the leftovers—should you have any—freeze well.

Ingredients:

2 medium size, yellow onions, thinly sliced

4 medium garlic cloves, crushed and minced

1 C chicken stock, or (in an emergency) commercial Low-Sodium chicken broth

1 Tbsp. packed dark brown sugar

1 Tbsp. chili powder

1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed

1/2 tsp. ground cumin

1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 (4-1/2- to 5-pound) boneless or bone-in pork shoulder (also known as pork butt), twine or netting removed

2 cups barbecue sauce (optional)

 Makes: 6 servings

Variation

1 tsps. vegetable oil

 1 (4 lbs.) pork shoulder cut or joint

 1 C barbeque sauce

 1/2 C apple cider vinegar

 1/2 C chicken broth

 1/4 C Light brown sugar

 1 Tbsp. prepared yellow mustard

 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

 1 Tbsp. chili powder

 1 extra-large sweet onion, small dice

 2 large cloves garlic, crushed and minded

 1 1/2 tsps. dried thyme

 8 hamburger buns, split

 2 Tbsps. butter or margarine, as needed

Makes 8 Servings

Instructions:

• ·         Place the onions and garlic in an even layer in the slow cooker and pour in the stock or broth.
• ·          Combine the sugar, chili powder, measured salt, cumin, and cinnamon in a small bowl.
• ·          Pat the pork dry with paper towels.
• ·          Rub the spice mixture all over the pork and place the meat on top of the onions and garlic.
• ·         Cover and cook until the pork is fork tender, about 6 to 8 hours on high or 8 to 10 hours on low.
• ·         Turn off the slow cooker and remove the pork to a cutting board.
• ·          Set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium heatproof bowl. Pour the onion mixture from the slow cooker through the strainer, and then return the solids to the slow cooker. Set the strained liquid aside.
• ·         If the pork has a bone, remove and discard it.
• ·         Using 2 forks (in the manner described above), shred the meat into bite-sized pieces, discarding any large pieces of fat.
• ·          Return the shredded meat to the slow cooker, add the barbecue sauce, if using, and mix to combine. If you’re not using barbecue sauce, use a spoon to skim and discard the fat from the surface of the strained cooking liquid, and then add 1/4 cup of the liquid at a time to the slow cooker until the pork is just moistened. Taste and season to taste with salt.

Main Course-Pulled Pork with Pineapple

Ideal as a make-ahead item, this pork is braised (Remember, baking/roasting is the recommended method of cooking pork; Always Incorprate  All Liquids and), shredded, sauced and ready to be stuffed into taco shells.

Ingredients:

2 Tbsps. packed brown sugar

2 tsps. each chili powder, ground cumin and dried thyme

1 tsp. each salt and pepper

3 lbs. pork shoulder blade cut/ joint

2 Tbsps. vegetable oil

3 cloves of garlic, crushed and minced

2 onions, medium dice

1 can (5.5 ozs) tomato paste

3 Tbsps. cider vinegar

1/2 tsp. hot pepper sauce

1 can (14 ozs.) crushed pineapple

1/4 C. diced fresh coriander, or green onions

8 Portions

Directions:

• ·         In large bowl, combine brown sugar, chili powder, cumin, thyme, salt and pepper.
• ·         Untie meat, if necessary. Then rub spice mixture over the pork. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours, turning occasionally. (Make-ahead: Refrigerate for up to 24 hours.)
• ·         In large Dutch oven, or Covered USA style "Roaster" heat oil over medium-high heat, brown pork all over. Transfer to plate.
• ·         Reduce heat to medium; sauté garlic and onions, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 4 minutes.
• ·         Add tomato paste, vinegar and hot pepper sauce; cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
• ·         Add pineapple and juices, stirring to scrape up brown bits.
• ·         Return pork and any accumulated juices to pan; bring to boil. Cover and braise in 300°F  oven, basting every hour and turning once, until pork is tender, 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
• ·         Transfer pork to cutting board and let stand for 10 minutes. With 2 forks, shred or “pull” pork.
• ·         Skim fat from sauce. Bring sauce to boil.
• ·         Boil vigorously until reduced to 3 cups, about 15 minutes. Return pork to pan. (Make-ahead: Let cool for 30 minutes. Refrigerate, uncovered, in airtight container until cold. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.) Heat through until bubbling, about 4 minutes. Stir in coriander.© Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

Old-Fashioned Boiled (actually, it's best when braised) Pork Dinner

Ingredients:

6 lbs. pork butt                       1 small red cabbage quartered                                                                 

6 large carrots                        6 onions

4 large parsnips                     1 tsp. salt

Method:

Cover meat with cold water, heat rapidly to boiling, then remove scum, reduce heat and simmer(do not boil) until tender,(if using the braising method; highly recommended, a tight fitting lid will be needed but much less water.)   3-1/2 to 4 hours. Prepare vegetables, cutting cabbage into eights. About 45 minutes before serving, skim fat from liquid. Add vegetables and cook until vegetables are tender. Drain (if using the braising method  be sure to save enough of the liquid for a thickened sauce). Serves 10.
©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan 1995. All rights reserved.

A History of Pork in Europe and in North America

Unlike the United States, continental Europe has a large high-end pork segment, where farmers raise the best they can, often for the cured meat market. The farmers and scientists have discovered what techniques work to produce the best meat. And why these techniques work.

In Canada and the United States of the Americas (as is true of almost anything "American") almost all the large producers have instead focused on producing; with as little labour as possible, as much meat, as cheaply as possible, and selling it for the highest price possible. In the United States of the Americas, unimproved (lard type) breeds were traditionally just turned loose in forests to feed themselves, or penned and fed agricultural-including animal waste, or some combination of both. Up until now they have done amazingly well.

Unfortunately for "American" farmers and producers and as evidenced by their rapidly declining economy; time is not on their side.

Many of the Europeans who visited the early United States and gave their impressions of it when they got home were struck by the exploitation, greed, and total lack of concern for the tremendous waste shown, and also by the huge amount of meat every American man, woman and child consumed.

Although fast disappearing, game was still abundantly available, and pigs were allowed to run wild and fatten in the woods, or (like the also imported Norwegian Rats) roam city streets and eat up the garbage.

Pigs, being omnivorous (like rats), are also basically scavengers; and prefer food that is slightly spoiled. This being the case, of course, much of the pork was diseased. And then as now, much was never inspected. In order that it would keep, but also in order to kill disease; certain cuts of pork were cured i.e., treated with salt and other substances and smoked. This curing could and often did take a very long time. After hams or bacon were salted and peppered, they were hung in a warm haze of oak, apple, and hickory smoke-which is why we Canadians so often see these names on ham or bacon today. Once the smoking process had come to an end, they were aged upwards of a year (they could be aged even longer than that, and an old Virginia recipe is very specific in its instructions for cooking a ham that is five years old).They gradually shrank, gathering their spices and flavourings unto themselves.  The dry meat would keep for three hundred years. For those of us who are used to ordinary ham- which is cured by injecting gelatine and brine into the blood vessels and smoking it over sawdust (or chemical smoke may be used) a process that can take as little as four days- the strong taste of American country  ham would be a real surprise.

“You should soak it first, and then cook it very slowly. Let it simmer, not boil- for simmering brings ye Salt out and boiling drives it in." 

While originally, Canadian pork was also largely uninspected; most of it was kept penned and Canadians tended toward the longer leaner British "bacon hog" rather than the shorter heavier American Mangalitsa, Tamworth, or Ridgeback "lard hog", which could weigh a thousand pounds. When all the visible fat was cut away from the meat the so called lean pork was still almost a third fat. Because the pork contained so much fat, it was considered more difficult to digest than beef or even mutton.

Canadian hogs were slaughtered at a younger age, approximately one hundred and ninety pounds, so they were not so fat and disease was never so great a problem.

So much salt pork was eaten by so many Americans in the 19th Century that molasses, the most popular of sweeteners, was regularly used to subdue the briny taste. It was marvelled that even the poorest of the settlers had salt meat for breakfast, salt meat, or salt fish for dinner, and salt meat again for supper. An English observer was alarmed that the people he encountered never seemed to eat any vegetables, and evidently had an aversion to fresh meat of any kind.

 However much pork may have been eaten, two things are outstanding about the American diet from colonial days down through the 19^th century, and into the 20^th and 21st centuries, - and they are its protein and alcohol base, which were unequalled anywhere else in the world. The meat and protein certainly had its effect on growing American children, but it is very doubtful if it has been for the good.

The American dream of affluence, luxury, instant gratification, rollicking good times, and world domination just may be the very thing that eliminates them from the face of the earth.

Fifty percent of Americans are now considered obese and many more are just genetically too big, which puts much added unnecessary strain on heart, bones, and joints. Their children, today, are expected to have shorter life spans than their parents.

Americans ate and drank so much that dyspepsia was almost a national disease and they were easy prey for medicine quacks peddling nostrums and elixirs.

Corn whiskey was the American wine. Diluted with water, hard liquor was drunk at mealtimes and in between meals as well. Even ministers and children drank it; boys 12 years of age or less were known to enter stores where whiskey could be had, saunter up to the clerks, "and tip off their drams”.

Perhaps the American propensity for whiskey in the first half of the 19th Century had something to do with the countries troubled adolescence. It definitely had, and has, everything to do with the chronic paranoia and need to dictate to the rest of the world

Pork In a Nutshell Unimproved Lard Type vs. Improved Meat Type

In a Nutshell

Unimproved Lard Type vs. Improved Meat Type

·        Unimproved breeds like the Mangalitsa are directly descended from various European wild boar populations. They haven't been mixed with Asian pigs to improve efficiency. Nor have they been selected for leanness.

·        More marbling, flavour and juiciness

·        Low feed demands

·        Slowly gains muscle

·        Grows slowly

·        Inefficient conversion of food

·        Lighter, less saturated fat

·        Much more fat in a carcass

·        Mature later, fewer offspring, adults are smaller size

·        Extremely disease and stress resistant

The United States

Before World War 11, the most popular pigs in the United States were lard-type, but they were improved not unimproved. The States thought they had plentiful feed so improved pigs were a better fit.

In response to low prices for lard after World War 2, farmers transformed the popular heritage breeds into Canadian style "meat types. In a world where lard is a waste product, they are more profitable. Because lard is used in explosives and can be used in lubricants, this could change if the American wars continue.

Canada

·        Yorkshire swine- the original English version not the U.S. version is still the most popular pig in Canada.
     Characteristically all Improved meat types:

·        When a modern improved –breed can't eat enough high-nutrient food, or gets too cold, or gets to sunburned, or has to forage too hard for food, does not get enough water, or has to drink salt water, it tends to get ill (and perhaps die).Not all of them are so frail-but in general, they need nicer conditions than unimproved pigs. This is especially true of today's pigs most of whom (partly because of the known diseases in U.S. pork) have been bred for an indoor existence.

·        Less marbling, flavour, and juiciness

·        High feed demands

·        Easily gains muscle(which is the part we eat)

·        Grows quickly

·        Heavier, more saturated fat

·        Much less fat in carcass

·        Mature quickly, bigger litters, bigger adult animals

·        Less disease and stress resistant

·        Because of the way they are raised, significantly less disease

The Value of Pork; as an Animal and as Meat. Makin’ Bacon, Too Much Added Water; in Supermarket, Bacon, Ham.

The Value of Pork; as an Animal and as Meat.

Makin’ Bacon, Too Much Added Water; in Supermarket, Bacon, Ham.

Bacon and Cured Ham are made from fresh pork which has been cured (preserved with salt and or smoke and other chemicals) so that it will keep for longer. Dried or smoked foods- such as Bacon or Cured Ham-are Not usually cooked. The original purpose was not so much for flavour; but, to prevent spoilage and/or insect infestation, and to render the product easier to store or transport.  Most bacterial caused spoilage and insect infestation requires the presence of water. Smoking and drying reduces the amount of water and thus makes the food less susceptible to either--because it weighs less, it is also easier to store or transport.

Dry Curing

This is the oldest method and each Canadian farmer and farmhouse once had its own recipe and a slab of bacon or a cured ham would be kept always at hand. From early pioneer times pigs were fattened and then slaughtered; the meat packed in barrels and immersed in lard; or cured, to provide meat for the family during the winter months. Bacon formed part of the rations for long distance sea journeys, (properly dried, salted and smoked, meats will keep indefinitely). The heavy salting preserved the meat from spoiling, but by the time it reached the Americas it was tough and more like boot leather than bacon or cured ham as we know it today.

Wet Curing

Wet curing was revolutionary at the time it was developed (1840’s) when there was no refrigeration. The term “WET-CURE” means to immerse in a liquid brine (a salt and saltpetre solution containing salt tolerant bacteria) for 3 to 4 days. This is a much milder form of curing, and the meat is cured in the brine under refrigeration. As with most foods, meat keeps fresh longer at lower temperatures so the wet curing method does not require so much salt.

The old, highly treasured by many, Canadian custom of saving bacon fat (pure, flavoured lard) is no longer practicable.  Unfortunately the “mass produced” bacon today is not only immersed in liquid but pumped with added water, other chemicals, and with phosphates to speed up the process and to add yield and weight. The more our mostly United States owned supermarkets squeeze the vendors (include free market); the more water, and/or pink slime, has been added; true flavour and healthy nutrition; if cured meats could ever be considered healthy; has been sacrificed for profit.

That nitrates, nitrites and salt are linked to heart disease and a variety of health problems has long been evident; now, a 2007 study by Columbia University suggests a link between eating and cured meat and chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) and a 2010 study at Harvard University suggests an increased risk of diabetes. The same association is NOT found for unprocessed meat.

Brine (Wet cure)

Wet cure brine has 2 main ingredients: Salt and Sugar. Salt is the primary drying and curing ingredient, with sugar added to offset some of the salts harshness—as would be found with dry curing—and to retain some moisture; enough to keep the meat soft during aging.

One of the reasons any bacon, dry or wet cured keeps so long is that it has been, both, brined and smoked. But remember, wet cured bacon is perishable; and needs to be vacuum sealed and frozen or refrigerated until eaten.

The salt in the brine is used to pull moisture out of the meat. The less moisture that’s in the meat, the more inhospitable it is to bacteria, and, or, insects, that cause spoilage. Brining also prepares the meat for smoking, which has preservative powers of its own. Smoke also brings out the flavour, aroma, and colour to your bacon. Nitrates and nitrites are often included, as anti-bacterial agents; they are particularly effective against the deadly botulism organism and also ensure a nice red colour on the meat.

Preparation for Smoking

Hams, pork bellies, other meats that are to be smoked must be dry so that a pellicle forms on the outside. A pellicle forms, as a result of the cure pulling water soluble proteins up to the surface of the meat. When these proteins dry, they form that shiny sticky coating we see over the meat which absorbs the smoke better. The meat will not take smoke until the surface is dry.

If the meat is smoked when still damp, it will be smudgy, not rich in colour, and not taste as good. Think about it; then ask yourself: with all this being true; why is it necessary to add any water? The answer, of course, is that; it is not.

The terms Canadian bacon and Canadian-style bacon; a much healthier, and nutritious choice, for the health conscious, refer to made from the much less fatty; pork loin (usually the longissimus muscle) loin eye. Ham is often served in the United States “of” America as a less expensive substitute; but; ham is not bacon. 

Too Much Added Water in Supermarket Bacon, Ham.

Unlike ham, which is a specific cut; and CAN BE FRESH OR CURED, bacon is always CURED meat, prepared from pork (pig).

Bacon is first cured using large quantities of salt, either in a brine or in a dry packing; the result is fresh bacon (also known as side pork or green bacon).

Fresh bacon may then be further dried for weeks or months in cold air, boiled, or smoked. Both fresh and dried bacon is typically cooked before eating. Boiled bacon is ready to eat.

Just as pink slime and water is now added to hamburger and ground beef products, it is also added to cured ham and bacon and poultry products.

All meats contain water naturally; adding more isn't illegal; but there is no way that producers can justify calling the added water beef; consequently just like the added slimes; it just isn't mentioned on meat labels

 Some bacon and cured ham may have 13%, or higher; added water content. 

Sodium polyphosphates are then also added, to improve slice ability and to reduce spattering when bacon is broiled, fried or roasted.

It’s such a shame; introduce slices of any of this limp, insipid, Elastoplast-pink, mostly fat, rubbish bacon, and after a very few minutes your frying pan resembles nothing so much as a stagnant, stinking, swamp, of spitting liquid and that sinister- is this case, white- goo.

Not very appetizing is it—kind of reminds me of that mass produced ground beef I photographed for my blog post on that subject. I expect more of my bacon and my meat and I suspect you do too; Now.  

© Al (Alex Alexander) D Girvan

Hog Killing Time

Anyone who comes from an old-fashioned Canadian farm background remembers the varied activity at pig-slaughtering time. There was so much to do that the whole family joined in to help. The men, of course took care of the actual sticking and butchering, and the women prepared the sausages, bacon, and hams(fresh and cured), and put the chops down in lard. Nothing was wasted.

The pigs head simmered gently in a great pot with herbs and seasonings; then the meat and juices left to chill and turned into that cold jellied dish, head cheese. Ears were boiled, then dipped in crumbs and broiled to be eaten with a spicy devil sauce; tails were cooked for hours with sauerkraut and beer or wine; pigs feet were pickled, or maybe boned and stuffed with ground pork to make an unusual sausage. Even the fat was used and in the process of rendering out the lard you got great cracklings. You buy them at the store today in packages labelled pig skins but they don't taste anything like fresh cracklings.

What wasn't rendered to make fine lard for pastries was used to preserve the chops and pork steaks. In the old-fashioned process, these were cooked down slowly and packed into great crocks; then melted lard was poured over the meat. Stored in a cool spot, a deep cellar or spring house, the cooked chops and steaks would keep all winter. They needed only reheating and crisping for dinner.

Tools of the Trade: Include a boning knife, steak knife, steel, and meat saw-many meat cutters would also include a heavier butcher knife and a cleaver. 

Weather and Scalding Barrel

After the first good cold spell of the year was the time to butcher the hogs; it had to be cold enough to keep meat from spoiling but not cold enough to freeze the carcass. Utensils, knives, buckets, straining cloths, and barrels were gathered. The wood for the fires was cut and neighbours and friends were waiting. Butchering day started before daylight, a fire was built just to keep warm, and one was started under the scalding barrel and another iron kettle (often this was just another barrel [this step is now pretty much obsolete, as most people use a propane torch, instead of scalding and scraping).

Killing

Killing the hog was usually done with a single 22 calibre long rifle bullet between the eyes. A larger calibre was too destructive and just sticking inhumane, messy, and wasteful. Draw an imaginary line from the right ear to the left eye and a line from the left ear to the right eye. Where these lines cross is where you placed the shot. The job was usually given to an expert hand and for good reasons. There is a lot of "good eating" on a hogs head. One delicacy (which I do not recommend) is pig brains. Another reason was; a misplaced shot could just injure the animal and a 180 to 240 pound hog can be very dangerous.

Immediately after the hog was shot, it was bled. This was accomplished in more than one way. One way was to insert a knife about three inches behind the jaw on the left side of the neck and cut the jugular vein. Another way was to lay the animal on its back and find the breast bone. Insert a 6 inch or more knife pointing to the rear and parallel to the backbone, with an upward thrust sever the carotid artery.  The important thing was to bleed the animal within about two minutes of shooting it. If you waited too long the animals blood pressure could increase and a condition called "blood splash" could occur. It didn't ruin the meat but it did give it an unpleasing colour.

Scraping

After the hog was bled an incision was cut in the hind legs just above and back of the foot. The gambrel tendons in the back of the leg were stretched out and hooked to a hoist; in this way the hog could be lowered and raised in the barrel as needed. The water in the scalding barrel needed to be heated from about 165 degrees to "just below the point of boiling". If it was too hot it would set the hair and make it almost impossible to remove and if too cold the hair would not slip and could not be scraped—it helped to add just a little wood ash, to soften the water and loosen the hair

You judged the time by raising the hog and scraping a small section to see if it would slip or remove easily. It was important not to let the hog stay in the water too long or the hair would set and was almost impossible to remove. Small patches of hair were removed by pouring hot water on it and scraping

Some people made the mistake of using a scraping knife that was too sharp. The idea was to scrape it away, removing it roots and all, not shave it. After the scraping a very sharp knife could be used, Just in case some hair escaped the scraping. Today some people use propane torch

Head

Removing the head was next and this was done simply by cutting around the neck at the base of the head until the entire neck bone was rounded. It was finished by a quick and firm twist then set aside for later use.

Gutting

It was important to have your tubs ready for this operation. It was also the time when you came to appreciate the withholding of food from the animal for the last day or two. The idea was to open the entire gut cavity without puncturing the gut. A cut was made from from the crouch to the chin. With this done, and the tubs ready; the large intestine was cut loose at the anus and tied off with a string and the entire mass was allowed to fall into the tub. When this was done; the liver was removed and the gall bladder was carefully removed. The liver was usually eaten that night for supper or it was used to make liver sausage.

Here is where you find people differ in their eating habits.

Cutting the Carcass

When the carcass was clean inside and out it was time to cut it into usable pieces. This was usually done with the equipment at hand—butcher knife and a chopping axe. At the same time the sausage making operation was started and the lard pot was going. The lean trimmings went in the sausage mill and the fat went into the lard pot. The lard pot was started while the hog was still hanging; with the fat from the inside cavity around the intestines or leaf fat. This is also where you get cracklings. The axe was used to cut the hog down the middle into halves. In the old days, they just cut down the back bone on each side, staying as close as they could. You got some good meaty backbones and a nice thick piece of fat back. Nowadays it is cut in half using a saw and the loins are removed whole.

The hams and shoulders are removed at the joints and you have the middling or side meat left. Separate the ribs from the side meat.

Lard

Making of lard was in many ways the most important chore of the day and required careful attention to detail. This was an art that you could become known for and your expertise was on demand on killing day. In fact, messing this job up could make you very well-known also. The lard barrel (and therefore major meat supply) could go very rancid before the winter was over if the job wasn't done right.

As mentioned before, the lard pot was started early in the operation. A slow fire was built out of small sticks of wood so the temperature could be controlled. The first thing into the pot was a small amount of leaf fat from the gut cavity. This was the most pure and easiest to render. As the leaf fat began to render, the other fat was added slowly and the heat was increased until a slow boil was achieved. Cooking the lard took a couple of hours or more and it had to be stirred constantly with a large wooden paddle. If you were a kid, this was a good time to be somewhere else.

The temperature of the fat should be kept at about 212 degrees. As the water evaporates the temperature will rise but it should be controlled. This is where the small sticks of wood came into play. In much the same way as when baking bread, they could be added as needed or could be raked away if the pot became too hot.

The rendering process was complete; when the cracklings turned brown and floated to the top. When the pot quit boiling and the water had evaporated out of the fat, it was time to strain the liquid fat through several layers of cheese cloth into your lard bucket, chop, or steak barrel. As the pure lard set; it was stirred until it became creamy. If you had not left too much lean on the trimmings or scorched the fat while cooking you now had a supply of pure lard that would meet your needs hopefully until next winter at "Hog Killing" time"

Farm people who raise their own pigs know what wonderful eating they provide. As it has so often been said, the Canadian hog is good from snout to tail. Not only is the entire animal delicious, the meat of the pig also lends itself to many variations in cooking and saucing: the number of sauces for spareribs alone would fill a book. Here are a variety of ways to prepare the popular cuts.

Selection of Pork

Good quality pork is grayish pink, changing to a delicate rose in older animals. The flesh is relatively firm, fine-grained, well-marbled, and covered with firm white fat. Fresh pork must be thoroughly, but not over cooked.

Note: Since pork has never been knighted in Europe and cannot be by the United States there is no Sir Loin. This could be, at least one reason why, there is no such thing as the sirloin pork chops; we now see advertised in many of our American based supermarkets and on the so called integrated market.

Rutabaga with Salt Pork

4 cups cubed rutabaga   

1 onion, minced

¼ lb. salt pork, finely diced

            Salt, and pepper to taste

Cook rutabaga in boiling water until tender. Cook pork until brown and crisp; add onion, and cook a few minutes longer. Add drained rutabaga. Cook 5 minutes, stirring often to brown cubes slightly. Season with salt and pepper. Makes 4 to 6 servings

Two Dutch Oven Or Casserole Braised Hams

Whenever you use a casserole or Dutch-oven to prepare meat or any other product--other than bread (technically, any bread produced in a covered casserole is also braised but because it is usually combined with, or on top of, another ingredient; we do not consider it as being such)--that contains liquid, your automatically braise that product. The beauty of using a Romertopf or other clay casserole is that the natural juices are all kept in the meat and casserole; they will combine with any glaze used to produce a delicious sauce that can and should be served with either your fresh or cured ham.

Let me take a moment to bitch, once again, about modern “bacon and cured ham “.They inject a brine of salt, sugar, nitrates, nitrites, some smoke flavour, and who knows what else into pork bellies with hundreds of tiny needles. They let it “cure” for a couple of hours, and then package it up-wet. That is that, enough said-this time.

I, as you regular followers well know, have never been; and will never be; a fan of cured bacon, ham; or any other highly processed food or meat. Cured ham is a very highly processed food (contains an awful amount of artificial gelatine, unhealthy nitrates and nitrites, pink slime, and, actually, is seldom tender, but is often, very, very, salty, and is quite frankly very boring. About the only thing going for it is that it’s a pre-seasoned hunk of—well we usually call it—meat; that will feed a lot of people, which is probably why it’s been a popular choice for parties.

If you can get past the salt though (try fresh), ham does have an incredible amount of flavour locked up in the meat, which is why it is used in soups and stocks. One way to quell the salt is to braise it in a sweet liquid. Fruit juice and even cola works, but after preparing this wine braised cured ham for a holiday party, I can’t imagine using any other liquid.

Some of the artificial colouring and salt from the ham migrates into the wine, while the long simmer breaks down the fat and connective tissues rendering the meat melt-in-your mouth tender. The ham, in turn, takes on the natural colour and flavour of the wine; and the sweet honey takes the edge off the remaining salt in the pork.

The best part though is that you’re left with a ham, caramelized onion and red wine stock that can be reduced and turned into a sauce, or better yet; it can be used to cook veggies making for a one-pot meal. Root vegetables work, but in a nod to classics such as bacon and cabbage, and choucroute garnie, Shred a head of cabbage and let it simmer in the braising liquid until it’s as tender as the meat.

Red Wine Braised Ham

Ingredients

3-4 pounds salted smoked pork

 (Canadian style bacon, picnic shoulder, and slab bacon, smoked jowl also work)

2 medium onions, sliced thin

1 bottle red wine

1/4 cup honey

1  11/2 pound head of cabbage, shredded

Directions

Place a medium-sized Casserole/Dutch oven (or other heavy bottomed pot with a tight fitting lid) over medium heat, add about two tablespoons of oil along with the onions, stir to coat, then cover with a lid. Let the onions wilt until they are soft and translucent (about 20 minutes), checking periodically to ensure they aren’t burning. After the onions are tender, remove the lid and fry the onions until they are caramelized (another 15 to 20 minutes).

Add the ham and bacon then cover with the wine and honey. Turn the heat up and bring to a boil. Continue boiling until you stop smelling alcohol (about 5-6 minutes). Reduce the heat to medium low, and then cover with a lid.

Cook until the ham and bacon are fork tender (about 2 1/2 hours), turning the meat over occasionally. When the meat is tender, transfer it to a plate and add the cabbage to the pot. Turn up the heat to medium high and cook the cabbage uncovered until it is very tender.

Slice the ham and bacon and serve with the cabbage.

Dutch Oven Or Casserole Braised  Ham

• Juice and zest of 2 Oranges
• 1 Cup Orange Marmalade
• 1/4 cup firmly packed Dark Brown Sugar
• 1Tbsp. Crushed Black Pepper Corns
• 1 Tbsp. whole Pepper Corns
• 2 tsp. Dijon Style or Whole grain Mustard
• 1 tsp. Cinnamon
• 8 - 9 lbs. Fresh or Smoked Ham

Glaze: In a sauce pan, place the orange juice, zest, marmalade, brown sugar, crushed peppercorns, mustard and cinnamon. Cook at medium heat, stirring occasionally, until blended. When done set a side.

Meat:

1.  Using a sharp knife, score the surface of the ham diagonally, making a diamond shaped cuts. Place the ham in your casserole (preferably unglazed Romertopf clay) or Dutch Oven. Push the whole pepper corns into the diamond cuts. Brush the glaze over the ham. Reserve any leftover glaze. 
2. Cover with lid and cook. You could brush with glaze about every 1/2 hour but if using a Romertopf this is unnecessary. The problem with lifting your lid that often will make the ham take longer to cook through. It will take your casserole about 10 to 15 minutes to get the heat back up after you take off the lid.
3.  Cook till ham is heated through or if cooking a fresh ham, until well done. When you smell it or see steam coming from under the lid....now its done!!!! If cooking a fresh ham it is still best to use a meat thermometer.
4.  Slice the ham an garnish, if desired,to serve. Especially when using a Romertopf, I slice the ham and leave it in the casserole.

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.

Crown or Candle-Roasted,Pork Loin,Spareribs

Crown or Candle- Roasted

Ingredients:

Whole pork loin            Pepper

1-1/2 Tbsps. salt            Cubes of salt pork

Method:

            Roll the loin into a circular shape and fasten together, French rib ends. Rub salt and pepper into meat. Cover tip of each Frenched bone with salt pork. Roast in a moderate oven (350 F.) allowing 30 minutes per pound. To serve, replace salt pork with paper frills. If desired, centre of meat may be filled with stuffing. For candle roast, do not roll ribs but leave loin in one straight piece. Roast with fat side up.

Variation:

Crown Roast Spareribs

          Wipe with a damp cloth 2 full slabs of pork spareribs. Sew or skewer the ends together, arrange the ribs upright in a Dutch oven or braising pan and fill the centre with one of my stuffing’s .for pork. Top the stuffed crown with a 1/2-inch layer of pork sausage meat seasoned with salt, pepper, and age. Pour 1/2 cup water into the braising pan and add a generous mirepoix of 8 peppercorns, 1/4 cup diced carrot, 3 Tbsp. diced onion, and a pinch of thyme. Braise the spareribs in a moderate oven (350 F.) for 1-1/4 hours. Serve on a heated platter with strained pan gravy and apple sauce.

© Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan 1995. All rights reserved.

Baked or Broiled Ham

ALWAYS REMEMBER, CURED, FRESH, SALTED, SMOKED

HAM IS HAM 

HAM EITHER IS--OR IT ISN'T:

Baked Cured Ham

            Have ham warmed to room temperature and bake according to directions given by packer, or as follows:

            Wipe ham with clean cloth, wrap loosely in clean wrapping paper and place fat side up on rack of shallow roasting pan. Do not cover pan or add water. For baking allow 15 minutes per pound for hams, 12 pounds or over;  allow 18 minutes per pound for hams, under 12 pounds; allow 22 minutes per pound for 1/2 hams; or bake to an internal temperature of 150 F., being sure bulb of thermometer is inserted into centre of thickest part of meat and does not touch bone. Bake, in slow oven (300 F.) until within 45 minutes of total baking time. Remove paper and rind from ham; make a series of shallow cuts across fat to cut into squares or diamonds, spread with desired glaze and insert 1 clove into each square of fat. Bake uncovered in 325 F. oven for remaining 45 minutes.
Fresh Ham should be treated, and prepared, as any other fresh pork.
When the bone is a nuisance, simply remove it, and stuff the ham before baking.

Glazes

One cup brown sugar, juice, and grated rind of 1 orange.

One cup brown or white sugar and 1/2 cup maraschino cherry juice, cider or sweet pickles juice from pickled fruit.

One cup honey.

One cup brown sugar, 1 table spoon mustard.

One cup puréed apricots, rhubarb, or apple sauce.

One glass currant jelly, melted. Use maraschino cherries and mint cherries fastened with pieces of toothpicks instead of cloves

Three-fourths cup pineapple juice, 3/4 cup honey, and 1/2 teaspoon mustard cooked until thick.

One-half cup maple syrup, 1/2 cup cider or apple juice and 2 Tbsp. mustard.

One-half cup orange marmalade

Cook 1/2 lb. fresh cranberries with 1 cup maple syrup until skins pop open. Press mixture through sieve and spread over ham.

            Instead of using cloves, make a flower on top of glaze, using pineapple rings and apricot halves.
©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan 1995. All rights reserved.