The Brown Sauces,
Glace de Cuisine, Glace de Viande, Demi Glace, Sauce Espagnole
Contrary to what is written in many modern (especially American) Cook Books, Espagnole, Demi Glace, Glace de Cuisine, and Glace de Viande are not the same thing, (if they were the French would not have gone to the trouble of giving them different names). For some inexplicable reason (for the terms seem self explanatory), American cooks; often reverse Demi glace and Glace de Viande; and then only if they recognize any difference at all.
The glazes were in common use long before any one ever heard of the Americas, the tomato, or Espagnole sauce. Glace de Cuisine is actually any rich stock or broth (including fish or pure vegetable) that is used as a glaze for food. Demi glace is any rich stock or broth that is reduced by half or three quarters and while it should "coat" a spoon; it is normally still a relatively thin liquid. Glace de Viande is made the same way, but is normally reduced by a factor of 8-10, has a thick syrupy or paste like, highly concentrated consistency; often used in a glaze but may also be used in soups, stews, and sauces.
Demi-glace (or half glaze), which did not originally contain Espagnole sauce, and therefore tomato is now the most often used of all the Mother Sauces
Glace de Cuisine-which includes many types of aspic- As is demonstrated in this impressive recipe taken from Secrets de la natute et de l’art concernant les aliments (1769).and the other recipes which follow, is a thick, syrupy substance obtained by boiling down an unthickened stock of meat, poultry, more rarely game, vegetables, or even fish. Stock glazes are used as an essence to be added to certain sauces, in order to enhance their flavour, or to baste dishes to be browned in the oven. They are also used as the base for a sauce when adding other ingredients.
“Take a quarter of a large ox, a whole calf (or a part only, depending on its size), two sheep, two dozen old hens and two old cocks, or a dozen old turkeys, plucked and drawn. After defatting all this meat and scalding and cleaning the calf’s and sheep’s feet separately, put it all in a large boiler. Add the hot liquor from 12-14 litres of stag’s horn gratings, boiled separately and put through the press. Then pour four buckets of spring water over it all. Put the lid on the boiler, sealing the edge with a flour-and-water paste (this was the original pressure cooker). Apply a weight of 50-60 pounds. Boil the meat over a low even flame, without skimming it, for six hours or more if necessary, until it is sufficiently cooked-when the bones can be easily detached. Remove the largest bones, leaving the boiler over the heat to keep the meat very hot. Take the meat out as quickly as possible, chop it up immediately, and then put it in a large press with hot iron plates to extract all the juices. As soon as this operation is completed, add the extracted juices to the hot stock left in the boiler and strain immediately through a large horsehair strainer.
Glace de viande can sometimes be purchased but is very expensive$ 40-50 per pint, and if you look at the list of ingredients, usually has additives and other adulterations which make it easier and cheaper to make. The recipe which follows is the real thing (in modern form) is easy to make, though still time consuming; and much cheaper (to you) than the imitations you can buy. A little goes a long, long way and it stores indefinitely in the freezer.
Original Glace de Viande-
Remove all the fat from 4-5 quarts brown stock, as made and described in previous chapter.
1) When stock is as clear as possible, bring to a full rolling boil reduce it down by half.
2) Strain through a muslin cloth (cheesecloth), then boil it down again and strain. Continue this process until it will coat the back of a spoon, (this would be a true Demi-glaze.
3) Continue and reduce by about 90 %( yes, until only 2-2-1/2 cups of thick syrup or paste remain.
4) Each time, reduce the temperature a little more as the glaze becomes more concentrated; you only have to pay close attention to the reducing stock for about the last 15-20 minutes to ensure the pot doesn't burn dry.
5) Allow to cool at room temperature, and transfer to a large Ziploc freezer bag.
6) Squeeze out all air, seal, and press to flatten.
7) Refrigerate until solidified, and then freeze until needed.
8) To use: Use in any recipe that calls for Glace de Viande or just a small amount of Demi Glace (you probably have an American recipe, calling for demi glace in error; they really mean Glace de Viande).If the recipe calls for more than a couple Tbsps. of demi glace it probably means demi glace.
9) Glace de Viande can also be used to enrich any gravy or sauce, by stirring in 1-2 Tbsps. Just cut or break off a small chunk of the frozen glace and stir into the sauce. Just remember, this stuff is potent, equivalent to 10 times the amount of rich stock as the amount of glace de viande being used (1 Tbsp glace de viande=about 5 fl. oz. stock.
Recipe No. 2-Chop into small pieces 4 pounds each of shin of beef with the bones, veal shank with the bones, veal bones and beef bones, and ½ pound each of fresh pork rind, blanched, and lean ham. The shank end of a ham will do very well for this purpose. Sprinkle the mixture with a little rendered suet and brown it in a roasting pan in a very hot oven (450 F.). Turn into a large kettle.
Add ¾ pound each of carrots and onions, coarsely cut, a large bouquet garni, and5quarts white stock or water. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer the mixture, partly covered, removing the scum as it accumulates on the surface, for 12 hours. Skim off the fat and strain the liquid through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth. Set the broth aside to cool.
Put the meat and bones in a saucepan, add a little rendered suet and brown it well. Add 1 cup white stock or water and simmer the stock until it is all but evaporated. Add the cooled broth to the saucepan and simmer the mixture gently until it is reduced to a thick puree. Remove the fat and strain the puree through a fine sieve into a bowl forcing through as much as possible of the meat and vegetables. Store this extract in sealed jars in the refrigerator.
1. Similar methods are used with poultry, game, or vegetable stock to obtain a poultry, game, or vegetable glaze.
By boiling down a fish fumet to a syrupy consistency, then decanting it and straining it through muslin, a light-coloured fish stock is obtained, which is used to enhance the flavour of a fish sauce or to pour over fish before putting it in the oven.
Similarly, white poultry stock is boiled down to obtain a light-coloured poultry glaze, used to supplement certain sauces or for glazing.
Now that we have brown stock we can also turn some of our attention to Espagnole Sauce (this is the brown sauce that many of us refer to as gravy). Even though the name "Espagnole" seems at first glance to be Spanish in origin, it is fundamental in French cuisine. Hundreds of years ago France and Spain were at war with each other. During this time some culinary fusion occurred and although French chef Careme is generally credited with inventing it; Espagnole was undoubtably one of the results.
Sauce Espagnole-from Careme’s recipe-Take a deep saucepan. Put in 2 slices of Bayonne
To simplify this operation, scrape off a little of the essence with the point of a knife, roll it between the fingers, if it rolls into a ball, the essence is perfectly reduced, if it is not it will stick the fingers together.
(In order to achieve a richer sauce, Careme used Glace de Viande rather than Demi Glace to create sauce Espagnole).
Remove the saucepan from the stove and put it aside for 15 minutes for the essence to cool. It will then dissolve more readily. Fill the saucepan with clear soup or stock and heat very slowly. As soon as it comes to the boil, skim it, and pour 2 ladles into a roux.
For the preparation of this roux, melt ½ cup butter and add to it, approximately the same amount of sieved flour, to make a rather liquid roux. Put it on a low heat, stirring from time to time so that little by little the whole mixture turns a golden colour. When adding the liquid, do not forget that the roux must not be on the stove while you are mixing in the first spoonfuls of stock; but it should be put on afterwards, so that it may be added boiling hot to the rest of the stock.
When the 2 ladles of stock are poured into the roux, stir so as to make the mixture perfectly smooth. Now pour it into the saucepan with the veal noix. Add parsley and shallots, seasoned with half a bay leaf, a little thyme, 2 chives, and mushroom trimmings. Leave to simmer, stirring frequently. After a full hour skim off the fat. 30 minutes later skim off the fat again. Strain through a cloth into a bowl, stirring from time to time with a wooden spoon so that no skin forms on the surface, as this easily happens when the sauce is exposed to the air.
Espagnole No. 1- modern recipe (as you can see this sauce is now exactly the same as the modern demi-glace except that it is not as thick, but then as you can also observe from the recipe shown, the modern demi-glace is not the original demi-glace).
Make a brown roux with 2 tablespoons butter and ¼ cup flour. Add 1 tablespoon mirepoix, ½ cup diced mushrooms and 2-¼ lbs. crushed tomatoes. Stir in 4 pints brown stock and simmer gently for 3-4 hours, carefully skimming the sauce from time to time. Pass through a very fine sieve or better still strain through muslin, preferably when cold.
Yield- 1 gallon
1 lb. mirepoix (2 parts onion, 1 part carrot, 1part celery)
3 ozs. vegetable oil, hot
4 ozs. tomato paste
1- 1/2 gallons brown veal or beef stock
12 ozs. pale roux
1 Sachet d' Espices (Spice Bag)-(parsley, thyme, cracked pepper corns, bay leaf, garlic clove)
1. Brown the onions from mirepoix in hot oil; add remainder of mirepoix; continue to brown.
2. Add tomato paste; cook 7 minutes.
3. Add brown stock; continue to simmer.
4. Whip the roux into stock. Return to simmer and add spice bag.
5. Simmer 1 hour. Skim.
6. Cool; pour in jars and refrigerate.
Demi-Glace- modern conception: A rich brown, half strength, glaze; made by boiling and skimming Espagnole sauce and adding white stock or estouffade. It is the most often used of all the Mother Sauces andusually has an addition of Madeira , sherry, or a similar wine.
Sauces Derived From Demi-Glace:
Bordelaise:
1. Combine 10 ozs. green onions, 2 sprigs thyme. 1 bay leaf, 1/2 tsp. whole pepper corns with 1 pint red wine.
2. Reduce by 1/2.
3. Add 1 quart Demi-glace-reduce until coats back of spoon.
4. Add 4 oz. poached marrow. Finish.
Chateaubriand Sauce:
1. Combine 1 pint white wine, 14 ozs. shallots, 2 sprigs thyme, mushroom trimmings, and 1 bay leaf
2. Reduce by half - until coats back of spoon.
3. Finish with Maitre d' Hotel Butter (butter, lemon juice, minced parsley).
Fines Herbs:
1. Add fines herbs to 1 qt. demi-glace.
Jus de Veau Lie:
1. Add a slurry of corn starch or arrowroot to hot demi-glace. Madera-
Madera-
1. To 1 quart of demi-glace add 8 ozs. Madera
1. In 1 quart demi-glace combine 3 Tbsps. shallots and1/4 tsp. cracked pepper corns.
2. Reduce over moderate heat. Add 3 ozs. Marsala.
Mushroom:
1. Add sliced or whole mushrooms.
Robert Sauce:
1. Sauté 14 ozs. minced onions
2. Add 1 pint white wine; reduce by 3/4.
3. Add 1 quart demi-glace and reduce by 1/2
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