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Tuesday, 4 June 2013

BROWN SAUCE OR ESPAGNOLE

Quantities Required for Four Quarts: 
One lb. of brown roux dissolved in a tall, thick stock pot with six quarts of brown stock or estouffade. Put the saucepan on an open fire, and stir the sauce with a paddle or whip, and do not leave it until it begins to boil. Then remove the whip, and put the stock on a corner of the fire, letting it lean slightly to one side with the help of a wedge, so that boiling may only take place at one point, and that the inert principles thrown out by the sauce during reduction may accumulate high up in the stock pot, whence they can be easily removed as they collect.

It is advisable during reduction to change saucepans twice or even three times, straining every time, and adding a quart of brown stock to replace what has evaporated. At length, when the sauce begins to get lighter, and about two hours before finally straining it, two lbs. of fresh tomatoes, roughly cut up,
NOTE: Remember, Espagnole is a derivative of Demiglace-the basic brown sauce-it is NOT the other way around; but tomatoes were not an ingredient of the original Espagnole sauce either.

Glace de cusine is any rich stock that is used as a glaze.
The basic, Demiglace is actually any rich stock or broth that is reduced by half or three-quarters to enrich it; it is normally still a relatively thin liquid.

Glace de Viande is made the same way, but it is normally reduced by a factor of 8-10, has a thick syrupy or paste-like consistency, and is much richer. Glace de viande can sometimes be purchased, but is expensive, $30-40 per pint.

Espagnole sauce, which, unlike the other two, now contains tomato and is often, incorrectly[US], referred to as gravy; might be thought of as half way in between.
SEE: Demiglace, Espagnole, Glace de Cusine, Glace de Viande, 
should be added, or an equivalent quantity of tomato purée  and about one lb. of Mirepoix. The sauce is then reduced so as to measure four quarts when strained, after which it is poured into a wide tureen, and must be ‘finished” and kept in motion until quite cool lest a skin should form on its surface.

The time required for the reduction of an Espagnole varies according to the quality of the stock and roux. We saw that one hour sufficed for a concentrated stock and starch roux, in which case the Mirepoix and the tomato are inserted from the first. But much more time is required if one is dealing with a roux whose base is flour. In the latter case six hours

Lenten Espagnole:
Practical men are not agreed as to the need of Lenten Espagnole. The ordinary Espagnole being really a neutral sauce in flavour, it is quite simple to give it the necessary flavour by the addition of the required quantity of fish fumet. It is only, therefore, when one wishes to conform to the demands of a genuine Lent sauce that a fish Espagnole is needed. And, certainly in this case, nothing can take its place. The preparation of this Espagnole does not differ from that of the ordinary kind, except that the bacon is replaced by mushroom parings in the Mirepoix. This sauce takes the place of the ordinary Espagnole, for Lenten preparations.
                  © Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights Reserved.

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